“I went from 20 stone to 15, I became fascinated by the weight loss. White is not quite the unabashed carnivore his early image put across, and spent nine months as a vegan a decade ago. “Many of the traditional meat alternatives are fine,” said Jane Devonshire, the 2016 MasterChef winner, “but you wouldn’t get them past my husband.” This beef, Mr Devonshire would approve. Yet the resemblance to meat, in the grain, the way it pulls apart, the mouthfeel, is absolutely uncanny. It resembled a stifado, a slow-cooked Greek stew heaped with baby onions, and the form was judiciously chosen how much it would look like a steak if it had been flash fried, I don’t know. It was not quite indistinguishable from the real thing, having a trace of sweetness that hinted at its true nature, but it was unmistakably the “gamechanger” that everyone describes.īut not until the beef dish was the technical achievement really shown off. The starter was “pork sausage” in a thick, umami-ish, Moroccan-tinged sauce of aubergine and yoghurt. Then suddenly this came along and I was marking them 9s and 10s.” Ben Bartlett, a chef and barbecue expert, said: “I judge on taste, texture and appearance – I’ve had so many bland and dull plant products. This is certainly the closest synthetic approximation yet. The molecules of difference that create the flavour of beef, as distinct from that of lamb, are few but extremely powerful. Redefine Meat is cagey about which protein it uses (investors say it is soy it also uses pea protein, along with ingredients your grandmother would recognise, beetroot, chickpeas, coconut fat), but is delighted by its method: the “meat” is 3D printed, and the mimicry is extraordinary. Dishes prepared with Redefine Meat’s plant-based products.
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